The Harmandir Sahib (or Hari Mandir) in Amritsar, Punjab, is the holiest shrine in Sikhism. Previously (and still more commonly) known as the Golden Temple, it was officially renamed Harmandir Sahib in March 2005.
The temple (or gurdwara) is a major pilgrimage destination for Sikhs from all over the world, as well as an increasingly popular tourist attraction.
Unlike some historical sacred sites, the Golden Temple of Amritsar is as alive with religious fervor and sacredness as it ever was, and visitors are welcomed to join in the experience.
Although the building itself is of tremendous historical and architectural interest, it is the Golden Temple's great spiritual meaning for Sikh believers (and others) that is most memorable.
Construction of the Golden Temple began in 1574 on land donated by the Mughal emperor Akbar. The building project was overseen by the fourth and fifth Sikh Gurus. The temple was completed in 1601, but restoration and embellishment continued over the years.
The temple had to be substantially rebuilt after it was sacked in the 1760s, and in the early 19th century 100 kilograms of gold were applied to the inverted lotus-shaped dome and decorative marble was added.
All the gold and marble work took place under the patronage of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The legendary warrior king was a major donor of wealth and materials for the shrine and is remembered with much affection by the Sikh community and Punjabi people.
In June 1984, Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi ordered an attack on armed Sikh militants holed up in the Golden Temple. Over 500 people were killed in the ensuing firefight, and Sikhs around the world were outraged at the desecration of their holiest site. Four months after the attack, Gandhi was assassinated by her two Sikh bodyguards, leading to a massacre followed in which thousands of Sikhs lost their lives.
The Sikh community refused to allow the central government to repair the damage to the temple, instead undertaking the work themselves. Although most of the damaged been repaired, the incident has not been forgotten. Many people in Amritsar are still keen to explain the Sikh side of the story.
On July 6, 2005, the Sikh temple committee decided to install closed circuit television cameras around the Harmandir Complex, and will likely be adding more security, due to other attacks in India on religious areas.
Despite its great sacred status, the Golden Temple is open to visitors, as all Sikh temples are. The only restrictions are that visitors must not drink alcohol, eat meat or smoke cigarettes or other drugs while in the shrine.
And unlike in many other temples in India, here you feel genuinely welcome and not at all pressured to take out your wallet. In fact, the local Sikhs are so proud of their religion, culture, history, and temple that you will almost certainly be offered enthusiastic conversation and valuable information by one of the regular devotees in return for nothing more than your attention. The welcoming information office to the left of the main gate gives helpful advice and information, as well as booklets on Sikhism.
Most visitors to the Golden Temple, whether Sikh or not, are humbled by what is quite simply the most tangibly spiritual place in the country. Arrive with a few good hours set aside and get lost in its magical beauty. Visitors must leave their shoes at the facility near the entrance, cover their head (bandanas are provided, or you can buy a souvenir bandana from a vendor), and wash their feet by wading through the shallow pool before entering.
The most famous and sacred part of the Golden Temple complex is the Hari Mandir (Divine Temple) or Darbar Sahib (Court of the Lord), which is the beautiful golden structure at the center of a large body of water. The gold-plated building features copper cupolas and white marble walls encrusted with precious stones arranged in decorative Islamic-style floral patterns. The structure is decorated inside and out with verses from the Granth Sahib (the Sikh holy book).
The water that surrounds the Hari Mandir is a sacred pool known as the Amrit Sarovar, "Pool of Nectar." The temple is reached by following the Parikrama, which circumscribes the sacred pool in a clockwise direction.
A marble causeway, the Guru's Bridge, which symbolizes the journey of the soul after death, provides access to the pavilion on which the temple stands. The gateway to the bridge, the Darshani Deorhi, has magnificent silver doors.
Every night, the Granth Sahib is carried in procession along this bridge to its "bed" in the Akal Takht, the seat of the Sikh parliament. Within the Hari Mandir, the scene is fascinating (and televised throughout India for Sikh believers). Amidst a crowd of fervent and solemn devotees, scriptures from the Holy Book are sung beneath a canopy studded with jewels.
A chauri, or whisk, is continually waved above the Book, while new musicians and singers continually join the ensemble after another participant has paid his respects. Lines of Sikhs pay their respects by touching their foreheads to the temple floor and walls, continuing in a clockwise direction at a moderate pace. Simply being among such gracious devotion will fill you with a sense of inner calm.
Another major highlight of the Golden Temple complex is the Guru-ka-Langar, a dining hall where around 35,000 people a day are fed for free by temple volunteers. Anyone and everyone is welcomed and invited to join the communal breaking of bread. Everyone sits on the floor, irrespective of caste, status, wealth or creed, powerfully symbolizing the central Sikh doctrine of the equality of all people.
Guest quarters are also available for international Sikh visitors (for a nominal fee), and at least 400 simple rooms are provided free of charge to Sikh pilgrims. In the Central Sikh Museum at the main entrance, galleries display images and remembrances of Sikh gurus, warriors, and saints; it includes some graphic portraits of gurus being tortured and executed in terrifying ways.
